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yamaha_fz1:hid_projector_upgrade [2016/02/11 08:46] ko4bb |
yamaha_fz1:hid_projector_upgrade [2016/04/01 21:14] ko4bb |
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| To upgrade a conventional H4 halogen headlight to HID, you will typically need a bi-xenon upgrade kit. The H4 bulb has two filaments, one for low beam and one for high beam. A bi-xenon headlight uses a single xenon bulb with a mechanism to reposition the bulb in the reflector to provide a low beam or high beam pattern. | To upgrade a conventional H4 halogen headlight to HID, you will typically need a bi-xenon upgrade kit. The H4 bulb has two filaments, one for low beam and one for high beam. A bi-xenon headlight uses a single xenon bulb with a mechanism to reposition the bulb in the reflector to provide a low beam or high beam pattern. | ||
| - | There are at least two proper ways to achieve this. Both use a single HID bulb that provides low beam or high beam under control by an electromagnet. Avoid the upgrade kits (usually advertised as high/low beam kits) that have one HID bulb for low beam (that also stays on in high beam), and a regular halogen bulb just for high beam. Stay away from those, they cost as much as the bi-xenon but only provide HID light in the low beam area in front of the bike while still providing significant leakage in low beam, meaning drivers coming in the other lane may be blinded, will flicker their high beams at you and may even crash in you! | + | There are at least two proper ways to achieve this. Both use a single HID bulb that provides low beam or high beam under control by an electromagnet. Avoid the upgrade kits (usually advertised as high/low beam kits) that have one HID bulb for low beam (that also stays on in high beam), and a regular halogen bulb just for high beam. Stay away from those, they cost as much as the bi-xenon but only provide HID light in the low beam area in front of the bike while still providing significant leakage in low beam, meaning drivers coming in the other lane may be blinded, will flicker their high beams at you and may even crash in you! See this page for a picture of hi/low system: http://www.xenonhids.com/bulb-types.html |
| The more common type of bi-xenon kit, at least the most commonly found on eBay or Amazon (like used as OEM equipment on most cars) uses a small metal vane rotated by an electromagnet to block part of the beam in low beam mode. In high beam mode, the flag rotates out of the way and all the light goes out. This type of kit requires a significant modification of the headlight assembly because the solenoid activated vane is part of a projector assembly that goes inside the headlight which has the be opened up. However, they tend to provide a very good, broad pattern because the projector is well mated to the HID bulb and takes advantage of the high light output and spreads it wide. This is very comparable to an OEM HID setup like my wife has on her Infinity. They do look a little funny because the projector is much smaller than the reflector, which is not illuminated. | The more common type of bi-xenon kit, at least the most commonly found on eBay or Amazon (like used as OEM equipment on most cars) uses a small metal vane rotated by an electromagnet to block part of the beam in low beam mode. In high beam mode, the flag rotates out of the way and all the light goes out. This type of kit requires a significant modification of the headlight assembly because the solenoid activated vane is part of a projector assembly that goes inside the headlight which has the be opened up. However, they tend to provide a very good, broad pattern because the projector is well mated to the HID bulb and takes advantage of the high light output and spreads it wide. This is very comparable to an OEM HID setup like my wife has on her Infinity. They do look a little funny because the projector is much smaller than the reflector, which is not illuminated. | ||
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| {{:yamaha_fz1:hi_beam.jpg?400}} | {{:yamaha_fz1:hi_beam.jpg?400}} | ||
| - | http://www.xenonhids.com/bulb-types.html | + | It was a little harder to put the rubber boots back but it does fit if you pull the center part out: |
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| + | {{:yamaha_fz1:hid_boot.jpg?400|}} | ||
| ==== Startup interlock ==== | ==== Startup interlock ==== | ||
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| I have designed a similar circuit for my bike. It only requires a relay, a SCR and a handful of passive components. | I have designed a similar circuit for my bike. It only requires a relay, a SCR and a handful of passive components. | ||
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| + | {{:yamaha_fz1:hid_interlock.jpg?400|}} | ||
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| + | Here is the schematic: | ||
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| + | {{:yamaha_fz1:hid_switch.png?400|}} | ||
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| + | Note: the terminal referenced as "+VBat" in fact should be connected to the switched 12V, otherwise the circuit will draw current all the time and it would never turn off. I took power from the unused "running lights" harness in the fairing. | ||
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